WILD BW: THE MANY FACES OF THE CHOBE ENCLAVE, A MICROCOSM OF SUSTAINABLE USE

Oshinka Tsiang

Driving through the nearly fifty kilometers of ancient teak that forms part of the forestry reserve between Kasane and Ngoma is a breath taking experience, especially as the rains have been generous this year. The greenery presents an atmosphere of a well-manicured garden, complemented spectacularly by smatterings of wildlife. A group of elephants there, a family of impala without a care in the world, a tower of giraffes nonchalantly starring at the traveler from their majestic heights a lone sable antelope grazing by himself and up in the sky a pair of raptors of indeterminate species evoke a serenity that very few places on earth can summon. You think you’ve seen it all until two hills open up in front of you at the Muchenje sign post and you are confronted by the gleaming waters of the Chobe River, currently filling up faster than normal. Across the river are plains that constitute Namibia. This is the unparalleled beauty of the Chobe enclave. From the undulating hills upon which nestle the tiny villages of Mabele, Kachikau and Kavimba to the ancient palm plains of Satau and Parakarungu, this is the western side of Chobe that forms the vanguard of Botswana’s conservation story with a complex nexus of subplots that only become evident when one gets closer to the proud natives of this beautiful place.

It is no accident that the Chobe Enclave Conservation Trust (CECT) is considered a model Community Based Organisation, (CBO) with an impressive array of assets including offices, brick moulding factory, a milling operation, a general dealer meant to cater for tourists and substantial shares in two lodges. This past week they engaged a professional auctioneer to sell their animal quota through which they raised well over seven million pula, significantly higher than they did last year. They are simply a well-run organisation with a board chairman who proudly testifies that everyone associated with the trust is acutely aware that they are just messengers of the people whose responsibility is to ensure that the communities benefit from the wildlife resources. The trust manages quotas from CH1 and CH2 conservancies. Currently the CH1 is under contract to an operator whose lease is in its final year. According to the CEO Moses Sinchembe, their plan is to accumulate greater knowledge of the market so that eventually they can sell direct without having to depend on operators. Sinchembe echoes the words of his board chairman, Thabo Zambo that they want to expand the CECT income streams so that they do not just depend on hunting. He said the ban on hunting in 2014 affected their lives adversely. They plan to in more hospitality related businesses.

But to some like Josephat Mwezi who has lost loved ones to animals, the cost of living with wildlife far outweighs the benefits. He tells a harrowing story of losing a sister who was attacked by a buffalo while carrying an eight month grand daughter in 2019. She had gone out early in the morning to look for her goats when the animal attacked her. It was only the cry of the baby that alerted the villagers to her lifeless body with the beast lying nearby. It was not long after that he lost his eldest son who perished instantly when his vehicle hit an elephant. Mwezi also laments the damage to crops caused by animals such as hippos, kudus, baboons and others which frequent his fields. Most of the damage happens at night. In the past he would stay the night guarding the field but he is now forced to spend the night caring for his ailing wife and can only guard during the day. With the river now welling up and the fields being threatened by the swelling river, the farmers are forced to frantically harvest before the crops have matured. All this could be avoided if the farmers did not have to wait for seed distribution which arrives late in the year. This means by the time the floods come, the crops are not ready.

And then there is the intriguing balance epitomised by the proprietor of Destiny Blo, guest house, Chimney Mulwani. He has struck a remarkable balance between farming, photo tourism and a tolerance of hunting that can be described as a living manifestation of Botswana’s conservation policy of sustainable use. The operation caters for clients from as far as Germany who are not only treated to both day and night tours, but get to experience real farm life where they participate in traditional sleigh pulling ox spans. The farm also supplies milk, eggs and bacon for the guests. Mulwani, who is the former council chairman has also contributed his expertise to CECT and supports its work. He is adamant that there is space for both hunting and photo tourism. The only concern at this moment is the war in Iran which has led to cancellations due to unreliability of air travel.

Many natives of the enclave have also taken to tourism related businesses including game farming. Many have taken advantage of government assistance to keep game such as impala and eland in their small holdings. Their main challenge is expertise. New game farmers such as Tumedi Tumedi who keeps about seven impalas, says they need more support in terms of information to manage the animals better. He lost three animals out of seven due to malnutrition because he did not know what to feed them when there was little or no forage. Through trial and era they are now finding out what the animals thrive on.

From the undulating hills to the palm trees of Satau and Parakarungu. The rain does little to dampen the spirits. Parakarungu Primary School children welcome me, a total stranger with the exuberance of youth. Their objective for the day is to do the seperu rehearsals. But they eagerly show me around the village in the fleeting rain. A very heart-warming experience.

In my line of work I have had the privilege of being welcomed in many a place in this vast country of ours, but my experience in the Chobe enclave will form the greatest highlight to date. The hospitality is phenomenal. Their smiles, their humility, their obviously happy disposition tell you that even as Botswana has been rated one of the saddest countries on earth, the researchers obviously did not visit the enclave. It is a hidden germ and a bastion of conservation that loudly proclaims that it is those who live with these animals that must lead the narrative.